In this article I write about my fifth stage on the Rheinsteig from Leutesdorf to Rengsdorf on which many memorial plaques to the First and Second World Wars dominate my thoughts. This even went so far that I got lost and noticed this after more than an hour. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here back to the fourth stage.
Day:
September 1. 2017
Start:
09:00 am – campground Leutesdorf
Goal:
06:00 am – Rengsdorf
Distance:
18 km / 11,18 Miles
Important notes for the 5th stage
Are there shopping facilities on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig? In Leutesdorf and on the way to Rengsdorf there are as good as no shopping possibilities. Later on the way you’ll find in Feldkirchen the Rheingast service area, which is open to Rheinsteig hikers. Northern of Rengsdorf there is an Aldi Süd and a REWE.
Is it possible to refill water on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig? In Feldkirchen at the Rheingast and in the Steakhaus Altwied, you can refill your water bottles.
Where can I spend the night on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig? In Rengsdorf you can stay overnight in the Hotel Waldterasse. Here, however, you should make a reservation, because the staff has hard times with spontaneous visits. Alternatively, you can camp at the Nonnenley vantage point in emergency cases, which is located just 300m behind the Hotel Waldterasse directly on the Rheinsteig.
How is the marking of the route on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig? I lost my way once that day because I was deeply lost in my thoughts and noticed this after an hour. I marked the spot on the map.
Map – From Leutesdorf to Rengsdorf
May 31, 2018 10:58 pm
Distance18 km
Time4 h 38 min
Speed4.0 km/h
Min altitude78 m
Peak319 m
Climb920 m
Descent783 m
DistanceInstructions
Label
My breakfast in Leutesdorf
I’m trying to get up early again to make miles. My alarm clock goes off at 7:00 and I notice that I have a lot of condensate water in my tent. The fact that I cooked the evening before close to the tent has now turned out to be a small mistake. The water vapour collected in the tent and is condensed on the tent wall at night. Somehow it affects me, because my tent and some clothes are soaking wet. I need to get things dry during the day.
After I have taken down the tent, it goes directly to Leutesdorf. A small village without a bakery or shops. Since I haven’t had breakfast yet, I ask an older woman if I can have breakfast somewhere in Leutesdorf. The lady smiles at me and sends me straight to the Youth Hostel. There you can have breakfast until 09:00 am, she calls after me and I went directly to the modern and trendy youth hostel.
The buffet is really nice and I enjoy my breakfast. Later I talk to the chef of the youth hostel. He comes from Rengsdorf, which is my goal for today, and wishes me good luck on my way.
After breakfast I leave and decide to take another break shortly after Leutesdorf. The sun hits me and I see this as a chance to dry my tent, sleeping bag and clothes. A small refuge with a wooden couch is ideal for this.
Lost in Thoughts – Commemorative Plaques of the big Wars.
On the way to Altwied there are many remarkable memorial stones to the First and Second World Wars, which made me very thoughtful and brought tears to my eyes. In some villages the men and sons of the families were almost completely wiped out. In addition to the names of the martyrs, the commemorative plaques also contained words of encouragement for the bereaved.
“The high forest is a church So go in there with devotion. Little birds sing pious songs I am alone with my God. There are gates open to you at all times To this cathedral in the silent grove You can cry, pray in it and hope – You can also forget Just step inside.”
Saying in the forest next to a commemorative plaque
A cloud lay over my mind and it is difficult for me to create other feelings or even to admit them. The question about the wars and why there is no learning from them built up a spiral of thoughts which I barely managed to escape from. It even gets so far that I miss a sign on the Rheinsteig and realize after an hour that I have lost my way.
Arrival in Rengsdorf
Arrived in Rengsdorf I go directly to the hotel Waldterasse. I needed a bed to sleep in and reflect on. In the evening I dine with 5 other hikers from Baden Württemberg, who walk a hiking trail that crosses the Rheinsteig. A funny round that takes my mind off things.
I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the fifth stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.
In this article I write about my fourth stage on the Rheinsteig from Linz passing Arenfels Castle until Leutesdorf. This stage should not be taken too lightly as there are many ascents and descents. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here back to the third stage.
Day:
August 31. 2017
Start:
07:00 pm – Hotel in Linz
Goal:
06:00 pm – Campground Leutesdorf
Distance:
27 km / 16.7 miles
Important notes for the 4th stage
Are there shopping facilities on the 4th stage of the Rheinsteig? In Bad Hönningen (after approx. 11 km / 6.8 miles) there is an Aldi Süd and a REWE – but you have to leave the Rheinsteig. Those who want to camp on the camping site in Leutesdorf should stock up with food here again, as there is no shopping possibility in Leutesdorf and no food is offered on the campground (there is still a pizza delivery service in Leutesdorf, but I didn’t try it).
Is it possible to refill water on the 4th stage of the Rheinsteig? Fill up your water bottles again in Bad Hönningen, because there is no possibility to fill them on the last 10 km to Leutesdorf (unless you ring people’s bells in Hammerstein and ask for water – that’s how I did it).
Where can I spend the night on the 4th stage of the Rheinsteig? In Leutesdorf there is a public campground and a youth hostel. If you want to check in at a hotel, you can visit the “Hotel Leyscher Hof” or the pension “Café Am Rheinsteig”. Both are very well rated.
How is the marking of the route on the 4th stage of the Rheinsteig? The path is well signposted, so you can’t get lost.
Are there any further recommendations for the fourth stage of the Rheinsteig? Yes, start the day well rested as there are many ascents and descents and the day can be very long and exhausting.
Map – From Linz to Leutesdorf
May 31, 2018 10:41 pm
Distance27 km
Time0 s
Speed0.0 km/h
Min altitude59 m
Peak282 m
Climb1398 m
Descent1304 m
DistanceInstructions
Label
The first ascent on the fourth stage
Fortunately, the announced thunderstorms and the storm warning from the previous day did not come true. After a very good breakfast in the Linzer Brauhaus I start the day with some rain. The city of Linz really has charm, is worth seeing and there are fantastic half-timbered houses.
Shortly after Linz the route goes steeply uphill and as a reward there are wonderful views of the Rhine. What I particularly notice on this route there are many shelters and places where you could camp wild or in emergency situations. A situation that didn’t show up in the first few days.
Passing Arenfels Castle
One of the first highlights of this day is the neo-Gothic castle Arenfels in Bad Hönningen, where you have a fantastic panoramic view. The castle Arenfels was built in the years 1258 – 59 under Gerlach von Isenburg and was rebuilt from the year 1848 under the patronage of Earl Westerholt Arenfels to a castle. Arenfels Castle has received the nickname “Castle of the Year” because of its 365 windows, 52 doors and 12 towers.
While hiking I notice that my legs and feet are well moving and I barely feel no pain. Shortly before Bad Hönningen I take a short break and decide to walk to Leutesdorf. It’s 01:00 pm and I’ve covered the first 10 km / 6.2 Miles.
After Bad Hönningen, the route leads directly into a bird sanctuary with breathtaking natural scenery. After I have left the bird sanctuary, it goes again into the forest and to the small village of Hammerstein. As my water is running low I try to find a shop in Hammerstein, but there is none. A nice woman fills up my water bottle and wishes me a good way to Leutesdorf, which is about 5.5 km / 3,4 Miles from Hammerstein.
Camping in Leutesdorf
Shortly before Leutesdorf I see on my map that there is an official campground in Leutesdorf. As I want to camp again, I go directly to the local campground and set up my tent. On the campground there is almost nothing going on, except for a few permanent campers there is nobody there.
The campsite is located directly at the Rhine, which is why I take a short walk to the bank of the Rhine after setting up my tent and experience an unforgettable sunset. I enjoy the peace and quietness on the Rhine and in nature.
Like the stars in the sky: Quiet and moving!
Friedrich Hölderlin
After the sun has set, I go back to the campsite and prepare my supper – ramen noodles with broccoli cheese mixture. I can’t believe how good this supper tastes to me. Then I slip into my sleeping bag and fall asleep. My last thought on this day: my feet feel better and my shoes become softer. A first glimmer of hope for a relaxed hike in the next few days.
Conclusion of the day: Because I prepared my food in the tent, I had a lot of condensate in it the next morning. My insight: Do not prepare hot food in the tent, otherwise you will have too much condensate in it. Here it goes directly to the fifth stage.
I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the forth stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.
In this article I write about my third day on the Rheinsteig from Bad Honnef to Linz am Rhein. After I slept in the youth hostel of Bad Honnef and was able to treat my feet well, I went to Linz am Rhein today. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here back to the 2nd stage.
Day:
August 30. 2017
Start:
08:00 pm – Youth Hostel Bad Honnef
Goal:
04:00 pm – Linz am Rhein
Distance:
17 km/ 10.5 miles
Important notes for the 3rd stage
Are there shopping facilities on the 3rd stage of the Rheinsteig? In Bad Honnef and in Linz am Rhein there are shopping facilities and restaurants. In the youth hostel Bad Honnef you can have an extra breakfast for a few euros. The breakfast buffet is not special, but it fills you up. After about 7 km (4.3 miles) you reach the Haanhof estate, where you will find a box with small drinks and snacks for hikers. Is it possible to refill water on the 3rd stage of the Rheinsteig? There is also water in the drinks and snack box for hikers at Gut Haanhof (approx. 7 km /4.3 miles behind Linz), otherwise just ask at Gut Haanhof. Where can I spend the night on the 3rd stage of the Rheinsteig? There are many rooms and hotels in Linz am Rhein, but they are expensive. However, one should always be able to find accommodation. One possibility for emergency/ wild camping is about 2 km behind Linz at a sports field (see map). How is the marking of the route on the 3rd stage of the Rheinsteig? The path is well signposted, so you can’t get lost.
Map – From Bad Honnef to Linz
May 31, 2018 10:33 pm
Distance17 km
Time4 h 28 min
Speed4.0 km/h
Min altitude68 m
Peak335 m
Climb842 m
Descent898 m
DistanceInstructions
Label
The Rheinsteig is not easy
It is the third day on the Rheinsteig and my blisters could recover well. After breakfast in the youth hostel I set off again. It goes straight into the forest and permanently up and down, which is damn hard. At this moment I also realize that the next two weeks will most likely go on in the same way.
Shortly before Unkel I take a first break on a meadow at Gut Haanhof. There is a box with snacks and drinks for hikers on the Rheinsteig. Perfect to recharge your batteries and take a deep breath. Afterwards it goes uphill and downhill again, through forests, over meadows and through small villages.
Adaptation of the travelling budget
Actually, I have planned to sleep in my tent again for the coming night, but I receive a thunderstorm warning with strong thunderstorms from the German Weather Service. Since the storms in the last weeks have been very bad, I decide to take a room in Linz without further hesitation.
Everyone complains about the weather. But nobody can be found, who does something about it. Mark Twain
Here I also realize that the Rheinsteig is not a pilgrimage on the Way of St James, because the prices for rooms are very high. I pay 70€ for one night, which is pretty damn much for a hiking vacation. Compared to the Way of St. James you pay 5 – 15€ per night in the Albergues. To my satisfaction, however, I have to say that the room in Linz is damn good 😀
Before I go to the hotel, I make a visit to the St. Martin pharmacy in Linz to cover myself with new Compeed blister plasters. After I arrived at the hotel, I began to treat my feet. After three days on the Rheinsteig they look very catastrophic, but thanks to a good blister management I am able to treat my feet well. Afterwards I go to the local Italian restaurant and order a pizza and a beer.
Summary of the third stage
As I sit in the restaurant, I feel really good and enjoy life to the fullest. I am tired and have pain, but the difficulties of the hike awaken something in me that deeply fulfills me. Tomorrow I try to reach the youth hostel in Leutesdorf. A 29 km stretch, with a good elevation profile. Even if that’s the plan, I don’t know if I can make that distance at the moment. I fall into my bed exhausted in the early evening and fall asleep quickly. The day’s insight: The Rheinstein is hard – damn hard! Here it goes directly to the 4th stage.
I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the third stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments. Greetings, Martin
In this article I write about my second stage on the Rheinsteig from Rhöndorf to Bad Honnef. After a wild night with wild boars in front of my tent, my first destination for the day is the ruin of the Löwenburg. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here you can find the stage overview and here you go back to the 1st stage.
Day:
August 29. 2017
Start:
08:00 pm – Rhöndorf – clearing in the Siebengebirge
Goal:
05:00 pm – Bad Honnef – Youth hostel
Distance:
12 km/ 7.46 miles
Important notes for the 2nd stage
Are there shopping facilities on the 2nd stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Rhöndorf and Bad Honnef there are shopping facilities and restaurants, but not directly on the way. If you absolutely need new shoes due to blisters or something like that, you should go to 7G Runergy in Bad Honnef (opening hours: Mon – Fri: 9:30 am – 06:30 pm; Sat: 9:30 am -02:00 pm)! Here you get a great consultation and you can continue walking on the Rheinsteig with new shoes.
Is it possible to refill water on the 2nd stage of the Rheinsteig?
There is no refill directly on the stage. In the morning I filled up my water bottles in the bathroom of the bakery store in Röhndorf.
Where can I spend the night on the 2nd stage of the Rheinsteig?
Bad Honnef has a reasonably priced youth hostel right on the Rheinsteig.
To get a bed at Bad Honnef Youth Hostel, you must be a member of the German Youth Hostels (DJH). Membership (valid for all youth hostels in Germany) can be taken out locally, costs a one-time fee of approx. 23€ and is valid for one year. In addition there is the price for the overnight stay, which also costs about 20€. As there are several youth hostels on the Rheinsteig and these are therefore an inexpensive alternative (15 – 25€ per night) to the otherwise very expensive hotels (50 – 95€ per night), membership is definitely worth it. IMPORTANT: Cancel your membership after the hike, otherwise it will be automatically renewed for another year after the first year.
How is the marking of the route on the 2nd stage of the Rheinsteig?
The path is well signposted, so you can’t get lost.
Is the climb to the ruins of Löwenburg worth it?
Yes, definitely! In order to get to the Löwenburg, however, you have to leave the path for approximately 2 km. I recommend this small detour, because the view from the Löwenburg is breathtaking.
Map – From Röhndorf to Bad Honnef
May 31, 2018 9:55 pm
Distance12 km
Time2 h 57 min
Speed4.0 km/h
Min altitude89 m
Peak384 m
Climb705 m
Descent691 m
DistanceInstructions
Label
The morning after
What a night. Awakened by the sun’s rays on my tent and the rising heat, I notice that the last hours are in my bones. The horde of wild boars came to my tent several times during the night, which really got me down. Afterwards it was clear to me why the wild boars came to the tent. In the hustle and bustle of the twilight and the tent construction I forgot to hang my food in a tree, which the wild boars naturally smelled.
I take down my tent, pack my things and start walking. After a few meters I see a sign saying that it is only a few meters to Rhöndorf and I decide to throw my self-sufficiency plans for the next 7 days over the pile.
I walk to Rhöndorf, go to the bakery and get a delicious sandwich and a cappuccino. The bakery also has a bathroom I can use. A perfect opportunity to refill my water bottles and start the second day strengthened. First goal for the day: The ruins of the Löwenburg.
Ascent to Löwenburg Castle
On the way to the Löwenburg I notice more and more that my shoes are pinching and I decide to take a break at the Eulenhardt refuge to give my feet a break. As it looks a few blisters have formed again and I realize that my shoes are a number too small for this hike. After I’ve treated my feet, I continue on the way to the Löwenburg.
Note: In order to walk to Löwenburg, you have to leave the Rheinsteig for a few kilometres. However, I recommend everyone to make a detour, as the view from the Löwenburg ruins is fabulous.
Arrived at the top of the Löwenburg I take another break and enjoy the fantastic view. It is great hiking weather, the air is pleasant and you can see very far.
After the break at the Löwenburg it goes downhill and I notice that my shoes cause real problems. Two thick blisters develop on the small toes on the left and right and two smaller blisters on the left foot. I decide to take another break at the reservoir of the Ohlbach and treat my blisters.
I also notice slowly how I get hungry and decide to take another break, which is also somehow exciting, because now I can try out my new gas stove under hiking conditions for the first time.
There’s a Chana Masala from Trek’N’Eat to eat. This is freeze-dried food that is made edible with hot water. It seems a little bit less to me so I added some ramen noodles and some dried tomato soup to the mixture. Conclusion: eatable.
The decision
After the lunch break I go on strengthened, but struggle with the pain in my feet and with the persistent tiredness of last night. I have to make a decision on how to keep running and decide to reduce the speed to go slower.
I therefore walk differently than planned only up to the youth hostel in Bad Honnef in order to treat my feet and sleep in a warm bed. The blisters just hurt too much and I have to rest and sleep.
No way is too long for that one,
who slowly and unhurriedly
progresses.
Jean de La Bruyére
I didn’t get the idea to buy new shoes that were a few sizes bigger on the whole Rheinsteig… I would do that differently today.
First insight of the day: Those who exaggerate at the beginning will not reach their goal. Every hiking trail must be approached with respect, otherwise you will not reach your final destination. The old wisdom “The way is the goal” gets a new meaning for me.
Second insight of the day: If you notice on the way that your shoes are too small, you should try to buy new shoes in the next village. Tormenting is not worth it. In Bad Honnef there is fortunately the running shop 7G Runergy, which advises very well and can help further.
Here it goes directly to the 3rd Stage of the Rheinsteig.
I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the second stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.
Greetings, Martin
In this article I write about my first stage on the Rheinsteig from Bonn to Rhöndorf. I started at home in Bonn and landed in the Siebengebirge on a clearing in the forest. The highlights of the day: Wild boars in front of my tent and a creepy guy in the forest. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here you can find the stage overview.
Day:
August 28, 2017
Start:
11:00 am – Old City Hall Bonn
Goal:
09:00 pm – Clearing in Siebengebirge
Distance:
23 km / 14.3 Miles
Important notes for the 1st stage
Are there shopping facilities on the 1st stage of the Rheinsteig? On the first stage of the Rheinsteig, there are virtually no shopping possibilities behind Bonn except for the day’s destination Königswinter, Rhöndorf or Bad Honnef. For this you have to leave the Rheinsteig.
Is it possible to refill water on the 1st stage of the Rheinsteig? On the Petersberg there is a public toilet on about 2/3 of the way in the Steigenberger Hotel to refill water. Until then you pass two small streams from which you could also refill water with a water filter*.
Where can I spend the night on the 1st stage of the Rheinsteig? In Rhöndorf and Königswinter there are accommodations, but they are quite expensive. There are no campsites nearby. Emergency camping/ wild camping would be another alternative.
How is the marking of the route on the 1st stage of the Rheinsteig? The path is well signposted, so you can’t get lost.
Map – From Bonn to Rhöndorf
May 31, 2018 4:16 pm
Distance23 km
Time5 h 51 min
Speed4.0 km/h
Min altitude46 m
Peak347 m
Climb1153 m
Descent1102 m
DistanceInstructions
Label
The Rheinsteig – Start in Bonn
Today is the first day of my Rheinsteig hike. I am a bit excited because this is my first hike with ultra light equipment. With almost 6 kg (13.22 lbs) of basic equipment (backpack, tent, sleeping mat, sleeping bag, cooking gear, hygiene, first-aid and clothes), about 3 kg (6.6 lbs) of food for 5 days and 2 liters (67 oz) of water I set off and hope for a great hiking experience. I start directly from home – I live in Bonn 🙂 – and walk to the old town hall of Bonn. This is where the Rheinsteig begins.
During the first days it is always difficult to leave everyday life behind you and to find a walking rhythm. So I just walk on and let the path come towards me. After leaving Bonn I move directly in the Siebengebirge and I’m immediately surrounded by nature.
It’s a hot August day and I quickly realize that I’m trying to keep house with my water. In spite of thirst I drink very little, which is not optimal. After a few hours I reach the Steigenberger Hotel on the Petersberg. Fortunately there is a public bathroom and I can refill my water bottles and take a short break.
A look at my map reveals that my destination of the day, the Walter Guillaume hut on the Geisberg, is only 6 km (3,72 Miles) away. At the same time I realize that I have a small blister and the new shoes don’t seem to have broken in properly. On all my hikes on the Way of St. James I had maybe 3 blisters in total and now the first one after a few kilometres.
The blister points inwards, and I assume that I have chosen my shoes a number too small. Let’s see how that develops. Arrived at the Walter Guillaume hut I take off my shoes, enjoy the fabulous view and breathe deeply.
A creepy guy in the woods
Wisdom of the forest: “Believe me, because I’ve experienced it: You’ll find more in the woods than in the books. Trees and stones will teach you things no teacher can tell you.” BERNHARD VON CLAIRVAUX
The first day is done, I think and look up in amazement when an older gentleman stands in the hut and looks at me. He sits down and starts telling stories without breathing. He calls himself a homeless pensioner and he always sleeps in this hut, but I can sleep with him here.
The man warns me, I have to be on my guard, because the mice that live here always crawl into the sleeping bags and pants – but don’t worry, they don’t bite. Worse in his opinion is the marten with its huge teeth and the fox which is always fed by him. The fox is very sympathetic in comparison to the marten, so the old one.
He tells me one horror story after another and I don’t feel comfortable at all in his presence. He reminds me of the demon from Paulo Coelho’s book “The Pilgrimage”.
When the man starts talking from his titanium heart valve and praises the great wash place at the cemetery, I just want to leave. I say goodbye and be on my way. Now I have only one problem: it’s already 7:30 pm and begins to dawn.
The search: A place for my tent
All packed up I walk towards Drachenfels and hope to find a place to sleep. While walking I constantly look around and have a queasy feeling in my stomach. The old man really scared me and I don’t want to sleep at the sleeping places he recommended for me and my tent.
I reach Drachenfels and experience a beautiful sunset, but at the same time I notice how I start to panic a little. Still no place for my tent found. I leave the Drachenfels in the direction of Bad Honnef and enter the increasingly dark forest. Around 9:00 pm I find a place on a clearing and set up my tent.
The clearing is in the middle of the Siebengebirge and not the best place, because the terrain is a bit sloping and I can only keep my balance in a hollow with my right buttock lying diagonally in the tent. So I look for a pleasant pose and fall asleep very quickly despite this uncomfortable position.
The Wild Boar Disaster
In the middle of the night, I’m woken up by a grunt and squeal. There’s a horde of wild boars right by my tent. The pigs grunt, smack, puff, rummage around and chase each other from side to side. I’m lying in my tent and I’m just scared. Purely instinctively I pretend to be dead and hope that the wild boars have no interest in me and my tent.
After a quarter of an hour the horde runs away and returns to my tent two more times during the night. A first border experience, because you can’t joke with wild boars. The next morning I collect myself, I’m relieved and happy about the warming sunbeams. The first night cost a lot of energy.
My conclusion of the first night: I’ve slept maybe 3 hours, been scared to death, been lucky and found that wild camping in the Siebengebirge might not be the best idea. Maybe now I also have the members of a horde of wild boars as new friends. However, I’m happy the first night’s over. Here it goes directly to the 2nd stage.
I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the first stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.
Greetings, Martin
![Rheinsteig Stage 4 -View on the Rhine from the \"Rheinsteig Schutzhütte\" Rheinbrohl](https://cdn.hikejunkie.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/1/nggallery/rheinsteig-day-4-rheinbrohl-bird-sanctuary/Rheinsteig-Day-4_view-on-the-rhine-river-close-by-rheinbrohl.JPG?t=1617175422 "Rheinsteig Stage 4 -View on the Rhine from the \\"Rheinsteig Schutzhütte\\" Rheinbrohl")
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