Rheinsteig Stage 5: Leutesdorf – Rengsdorf 18km

In this article I write about my fifth stage on the Rheinsteig from Leutesdorf to Rengsdorf on which many memorial plaques to the First and Second World Wars dominate my thoughts. This even went so far that I got lost and noticed this after more than an hour. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here back to the fourth stage.

Day: September 1. 2017
Start: 09:00 am – campground Leutesdorf
Goal: 06:00 am – Rengsdorf
Distance: 18 km / 11,18 Miles

Important notes for the 5th stage

Are there shopping facilities on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Leutesdorf and on the way to Rengsdorf there are as good as no shopping possibilities. Later on the way you’ll find in Feldkirchen the Rheingast service area, which is open to Rheinsteig hikers. Northern of Rengsdorf there is an Aldi Süd and a REWE.

Is it possible to refill water on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Feldkirchen at the Rheingast and in the Steakhaus Altwied, you can refill your water bottles. 

Where can I spend the night on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Rengsdorf you can stay overnight in the Hotel Waldterasse. Here, however, you should make a reservation, because the staff has hard times with spontaneous visits. Alternatively, you can camp at the Nonnenley vantage point in emergency cases, which is located just 300m behind the Hotel Waldterasse directly on the Rheinsteig.

How is the marking of the route on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig?
I lost my way once that day because I was deeply lost in my thoughts and noticed this after an hour. I marked the spot on the map. 

Map – From Leutesdorf to Rengsdorf

May 31, 2018 10:58 pm
  • Distance 17.71 km
  • Time 4 h 38 min
  • Speed 4.0 km/h
  • Min altitude 78 m
  • Peak 319 m
  • Climb 920 m
  • Descent 783 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

My breakfast in Leutesdorf

I’m trying to get up early again to make miles. My alarm clock goes off at 7:00 and I notice that I have a lot of condensate water in my tent. The fact that I cooked the evening before close to the tent has now turned out to be a small mistake. The water vapour collected in the tent and is condensed on the tent wall at night. Somehow it affects me, because my tent and some clothes are soaking wet. I need to get things dry during the day.

After I have taken down the tent, it goes directly to Leutesdorf. A small village without a bakery or shops. Since I haven’t had breakfast yet, I ask an older woman if I can have breakfast somewhere in Leutesdorf. The lady smiles at me and sends me straight to the Youth Hostel. There you can have breakfast until 09:00 am, she calls after me and I went directly to the modern and trendy youth hostel.

The buffet is really nice and I enjoy my breakfast. Later I talk to the chef of the youth hostel. He comes from Rengsdorf, which is my goal for today, and wishes me good luck on my way.

After breakfast I leave and decide to take another break shortly after Leutesdorf. The sun hits me and I see this as a chance to dry my tent, sleeping bag and clothes. A small refuge with a wooden couch is ideal for this.

Lost in Thoughts – Commemorative Plaques of the big Wars.

On the way to Altwied there are many remarkable memorial stones to the First and Second World Wars, which made me very thoughtful and brought tears to my eyes. In some villages the men and sons of the families were almost completely wiped out. In addition to the names of the martyrs, the commemorative plaques also contained words of encouragement for the bereaved.

“The high forest is a church
So go in there with devotion.
Little birds sing pious songs
I am alone with my God.
There are gates open to you at all times
To this cathedral in the silent grove
You can cry, pray in it and hope – 
You can also forget
Just step inside.”

Saying in the forest next to a commemorative plaque

A cloud lay over my mind and it is difficult for me to create other feelings or even to admit them. The question about the wars and why there is no learning from them built up a spiral of thoughts which I barely managed to escape from. It even gets so far that I miss a sign on the Rheinsteig and realize after an hour that I have lost my way.

Arrival in Rengsdorf

Arrived in Rengsdorf I go directly to the hotel Waldterasse. I needed a bed to sleep in and reflect on. In the evening I dine with 5 other hikers from Baden Württemberg, who walk a hiking trail that crosses the Rheinsteig. A funny round that takes my mind off things.

The insight of the day: It is hard to get out of a spiral of thoughts alone if you are not prepared for it. Here it goes directly to the sixth stage.


I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the fifth stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.

Greetings, Martin

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Hi, I'm Martin and I love hiking. In 2012 I had my first big hike on the Camino de Santiago. Since then I am hiking addicted and write as HikeJunkie on this blog.
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