Rheinsteig Stage 8: Koblenz – Braubach 20km

Rheinsteig Stage 8: Koblenz – Braubach 20km

In this article I write about my eighth stage on the Rheinsteig from Koblenz through the Ruppertsklamm to Braubach. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here it goes back to the seventh stage.

Day:September 04. 2017
Start:08:00 am – Campground Koblenz
Goal:04:30 pm – Hotel in Braubach
Distance:20 km / 12,42 Miles

Important notes for the 8th stage

Are there shopping facilities on the 8th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Koblenz you will find many shopping possibilities, as Koblenz with its 112.000 inhabitants is one of the biggest cities on the Rheinsteig. In Braubach there is a Netto supermarket, where you can fill up your foodbag. On the way from Koblenz to Braubach there are no direct shopping possibilities, only a small restaurant called “Zum Schleusenhäuschen”, which is not always open. 

Is it possible to refill water on the 8th stage of the Rheinsteig?
With a good water filter like the Saywer PointONE* you can refill and filter water in the Ruppertsklamm. In the restaurant “Zum Schleusenhäuschen” you can also fill up your water bottles when it is open.

Where can I spend the night on the 8th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Braubach there are several hotels and guesthouses. On that day I stayed at the hotel “Zum Weissen Schwanen” because I still had a lot of pain and problems with my blisters. Alternatively there are 1.5 kilometres before and behind Braubach directly on the Rheinsteig refuge huts where an emergency campground can be set up. I’ve camped here before.

How is the marking of the route on the 8th stage of the Rheinsteig?
The labelling is very good and you can’t get lost.

Map – From Koblenz to Braubach

June 1, 2018 10:32 am
  • Distance 20 km
  • Time 5 h 24 min
  • Speed 4.0 km/h
  • Min altitude 61 m
  • Peak 352 m
  • Climb 975 m
  • Descent 971 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Koblenz at Sunrise

I leave the campground at the “Deutsches Eck” I go directly to a bakery to have a small breakfast. Afterwards the tour continues through the old town of Koblenz to the Rhine and back to the Rheinsteig. Koblenz at sunrise is really beautiful to see.

On the banks of the Rhine I see two employees of the public order office catching a wild camper and letting it go up. In Koblenz it is not recommended to camp wild.

Directly after Koblenz it goes with fantastic weather directly into the forest with incredibly beautiful nature in the direction of Ruppertsklamm. Even today I still have considerable pain from blisters on my feet, but they heal well.

Also my shoes that are too small stretch a little and adapt to my foot shape better and better. Through regular treatment of my feet and many small breaks I make progress. My next destination is the Ruppertsklamm refuge. 

The Ruppertsklamm

The Ruppertsklamm is a narrow valley of about one kilometre with a small stream cut into solid rock. I must confess that I didn’t expect very much from the Ruppertsklamm at the beginning, but was overwhelmed by the beauty of this beautiful gorge and the surrounding nature.

Whoever has the idea to take a shortcut to avoid the Ruppertsklamm will miss one of the most beautiful passages on the Rheinsteig. It is definitely worth walking through the Ruppertsklamm!

“The purpose of travelling is to get to a destination, the purpose of hiking is to be on the way.”

Theodor Heuss

From Lahnstein to Braubach

Behind the Ruppertsklamm you reach Lahnstein and walk along the Lahn river to the restaurant “Zum Schleusenhäuschen”. When the sluice house is open, you can have a great break here and get your strength back. Afterwards it goes on to Braubach.

A steep ascent then leads through a few small villages and beautiful nature. After a steep and demanding descent you reach Braubach and can finish the day’s stage.

Shortly before Braubach you have a breathtaking view of the Marksburg and the Rhine. There is also a shelter where you could set up an emergency campsite if nessecary.

Conclusion

In my opinion, the eighth stage is one of the most beautiful stages of the Rheinsteig. The way through the Ruppertsklamm with breathtaking nature, but also the final view of the Marksburg castle shortly before Braubach are true highlights of this stage.

Day trip: The route from Koblenz to Braubach can also be hiked very well as a single day trip. From Braubach there is a train that takes you back to Koblenz every hour. 


I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the eighth stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.

Greetings, Martin

Rheinsteig Stage 7: Sayn – Koblenz 20km

Rheinsteig Stage 7: Sayn – Koblenz 20km

In this article I write about my seventh stage on the Rheinsteig from Sayn to Koblenz to the fortress Ehrenbreitstein. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here it goes back to the sixth stage.

Day:September 03. 2017
Start:08:00 am – Sayn
Goal:05:00 pm – Campground Koblenz
Distance:20 km / 12,42 Miles

Important notes for the 7th stage

Are there shopping facilities on the 7th stage of the Rheinsteig?
Yes, in Vallendar and especially in Koblenz there are many shopping possibilities, because these are larger cities. 

Is it possible to refill water on the 7th stage of the Rheinsteig?
Yes, along the Rheinsteig there are various rest stops in the forest and smaller villages and towns where you can fill up your water.

Where can I spend the night on the 7th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Koblenz there are many hotels and guesthouses but also a youth hostel in the Ehrenbreitstein fortress. Here, however, you should reserve a bed before. Alternatively there is a very nice and good campground in Koblenz opposite the “Deutsches Eck”. 

How is the marking of the route on the 7th stage of the Rheinsteig?
The marking behind Sayn is not always very clear. In the forest behind Sayn you should look carefully. If you haven’t seen a Rheinsteig symbol after 15 minutes, you are probably lost. Then just go back and look for symbols. 

Map – From Sayn to Koblenz

May 31, 2018 11:14 pm
  • Distance 20 km
  • Time 5 h 20 min
  • Speed 4.0 km/h
  • Min altitude 63 m
  • Peak 274 m
  • Climb 944 m
  • Descent 958 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

Foggy start on the way to Koblenz

I leave Sayn early and head to Koblenz. The path passes first the Sayn Castle and then goes back into the forest. A dense fog prevents the sun from illuminating the day and the dense trees look mystical and spooky. Now I realize where the Grimm brothers got the ideas for their fairy tales.

At the scout camp Brexbachtal I meet again a commemorative plaque with the following inscription: “At this place a German soldier was executed by a firing squad on April 6, 1940 because of a desertion from the flag”, which makes the forest even more creepy and ghostly.

Around noon the fog disappears and the sun comes out. I take a break in the Waldgaststätte Wüstenhof, which offers a great view and is well frequented. Somehow, the loneliness of the hike is bothering me so much that I find myself in a real low. I enjoy a non-alcoholic beer and a cappuccino and hope that I feel better afterwards. But somehow it doesn’t work.

The conversation with a good friend

I get my smartphone out of my pocket and try to distract myself. I see that my good hiker friend Basti is online, who is currently travelling in Australia. We decide to skype and I pour out my heart to him. Somehow everything sucks: condensate in the tent, no one on the Rheinsteig, food is crap and I thought it would be different. I don’t know how Basti did it, but in two or three sentences he completely turned me around and rebuilt me.

“Martin dude! It’s all a brain thing! If you can handle your thoughts here, then you can handle everything!
And fuck condensate in the tent and bad food. That’s the price for your minimalist lifestyle. That’s the compromise you make as a Hiker!”

My hiking friend Basti via Skype

I don’t know how others would have reacted, but Basti’s words really motivated me to go on and change my attitude towards myself and the Rheinsteig. Thank you Basti!

I solved the condensate problem afterwards by using my microfiber towel to wipe up the condensate, which worked better than I thought. Now I only needed to get the towel dry instead of the whole tent. Even if the solution sounds simple, it was only Basti’s impulse and the change in my mindset that brought me to this conclusion.

Arrival in Koblenz

It goes on to Koblenz and I am determined to continue the Rheinsteig and to get my thoughts under control. The route continues through forests, the small town of Vallendar, smaller villages and finally to the fortress park Koblenz. Here the Ehrenbreitstein fortress thrones over the town of Koblenz.

Arrived in Koblenz, I want to go to the youth hostel on the Ehrenbreitstein fortress, which is completely booked out. Fortunately there is a beautiful campground in Koblenz directly in front of the “Deutsches Eck”, where I head directly for. 

Conclusion of the day: Those who can control their thoughts have a real advantage. Here it goes now directly to the eighth stage.


I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the seventh stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.

Greetings, Martin

Rheinsteig Stage 6: Rengsdorf – Sayn 15km

Rheinsteig Stage 6: Rengsdorf – Sayn 15km

In this article I write about my sixth stage on the Rheinsteig from Rengsdorf to Sayn, past the Nonnenley vantage point and through many forests. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here back to the fifth stage.

Day:02. September 2017
Start:09:00 am – Hotel Waldterasse in Rengsdorf
Goal:01:00 pm – Sayn – Accommodation at a friend’s house
Distanz:15 km / 9,32 Miles

Important notes for the 6th stage

Are there shopping facilities on the 6th stage of the Rheinsteig? No, there are no shopping facilities on the whole stage. Since the distance is comparatively short, you can buy new supplies in Sayn. Is it possible to refill water on the 6th stage of the Rheinsteig? No, on the whole stage there is no possibility to fill up with water. So you should take enough water with you. Where can I spend the night on the 6th stage of the Rheinsteig? In Sayn there are excellent guesthouses and holiday homes, which are however very expensive. Alternatively you can camp behind Sayn at the scout campsite Bexbachtal Campen. How is the marking of the route on the 6th stage of the Rheinsteig? The path is very well signposted and you can’t get lost. 

Map – From Rengsdorf to Sayn

May 31, 2018 11:08 pm
  • Distance 15 km
  • Time 3 h 50 min
  • Speed 4.0 km/h
  • Min altitude 76 m
  • Peak 325 m
  • Climb 674 m
  • Descent 903 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

The Nonnenley Viewpoint

After a good night’s sleep and enjoying a mediocre breakfast in the Hotel Waldterrasse, I went directly into the forest behind Rengsdorf and to the Nonnenley viewpoint. Here, you have a fantastic view and there is the possibility to camp in case you can’t find an alternative accommodation in Rengsdorf.  Breathtaking, beautiful and completely fascinating I walk through the forest. Despite a very dry weather period, the forest creates its own climate. It is incredible how much water and moisture the forest holds for itself and its creatures.

It feels a bit like a greenhouse – high humidity, controlled temperatures and everywhere it’s teeming with life – I’m really impressed. The whole way to Sayn leads through the forest.

Arrival in Sayn – a mental challenge

After only 4 hours I reach Sayn and visit my old colleague Dennis, with whom I also spend the night. He tells me about an old colleague who died on vacation and how it was at the funeral. I shared a room with this colleague, and the whole story is really hitting me. It seems that death is the main theme on the Rheinsteig for me. On the fifth day I barely found a way to deal with the many commemorative plaques in the small villages on the Rheinsteig about the First and Second World War, now a message that affects me directly and gets the thought cycle going again. It’s hard for me to get positive thoughts. Dennis says that he has a football match in the afternoon and asks me if I want to join him. I accept gratefully and watch the soccer match of the Kreisligaspiel D. Not spectacular but still a change of pace.

How can you weep over a person who died? Those who have loved him and lost him are to be lamented. Helmuth of Moltke

Dennis asked me after the game if I would like to come to the castle festival in Sayn, but I refuse because I was totally exhausted. The last few days have been pretty hard to walk. In addition to the physical exertion, the loneliness and the news of the death of an old colleague hit me hard. I decide to go to sleep and have no regrets about this decision for a second.

Conclusion of the day: To have friends and family with which you can exchange yourself is very important – on a hike and in real life. Here it goes now directly to the seventh stage.


I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the sixth stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments. Greetings, Martin

Rheinsteig Stage 5: Leutesdorf – Rengsdorf 18km

Rheinsteig Stage 5: Leutesdorf – Rengsdorf 18km

In this article I write about my fifth stage on the Rheinsteig from Leutesdorf to Rengsdorf on which many memorial plaques to the First and Second World Wars dominate my thoughts. This even went so far that I got lost and noticed this after more than an hour. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here back to the fourth stage.

Day:September 1. 2017
Start:09:00 am – campground Leutesdorf
Goal:06:00 am – Rengsdorf
Distance:18 km / 11,18 Miles

Important notes for the 5th stage

Are there shopping facilities on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Leutesdorf and on the way to Rengsdorf there are as good as no shopping possibilities. Later on the way you’ll find in Feldkirchen the Rheingast service area, which is open to Rheinsteig hikers. Northern of Rengsdorf there is an Aldi Süd and a REWE.

Is it possible to refill water on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Feldkirchen at the Rheingast and in the Steakhaus Altwied, you can refill your water bottles. 

Where can I spend the night on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Rengsdorf you can stay overnight in the Hotel Waldterasse. Here, however, you should make a reservation, because the staff has hard times with spontaneous visits. Alternatively, you can camp at the Nonnenley vantage point in emergency cases, which is located just 300m behind the Hotel Waldterasse directly on the Rheinsteig.

How is the marking of the route on the 5th stage of the Rheinsteig?
I lost my way once that day because I was deeply lost in my thoughts and noticed this after an hour. I marked the spot on the map. 

Map – From Leutesdorf to Rengsdorf

May 31, 2018 10:58 pm
  • Distance 18 km
  • Time 4 h 38 min
  • Speed 4.0 km/h
  • Min altitude 78 m
  • Peak 319 m
  • Climb 920 m
  • Descent 783 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

My breakfast in Leutesdorf

I’m trying to get up early again to make miles. My alarm clock goes off at 7:00 and I notice that I have a lot of condensate water in my tent. The fact that I cooked the evening before close to the tent has now turned out to be a small mistake. The water vapour collected in the tent and is condensed on the tent wall at night. Somehow it affects me, because my tent and some clothes are soaking wet. I need to get things dry during the day.

After I have taken down the tent, it goes directly to Leutesdorf. A small village without a bakery or shops. Since I haven’t had breakfast yet, I ask an older woman if I can have breakfast somewhere in Leutesdorf. The lady smiles at me and sends me straight to the Youth Hostel. There you can have breakfast until 09:00 am, she calls after me and I went directly to the modern and trendy youth hostel.

The buffet is really nice and I enjoy my breakfast. Later I talk to the chef of the youth hostel. He comes from Rengsdorf, which is my goal for today, and wishes me good luck on my way.

After breakfast I leave and decide to take another break shortly after Leutesdorf. The sun hits me and I see this as a chance to dry my tent, sleeping bag and clothes. A small refuge with a wooden couch is ideal for this.

Lost in Thoughts – Commemorative Plaques of the big Wars.

On the way to Altwied there are many remarkable memorial stones to the First and Second World Wars, which made me very thoughtful and brought tears to my eyes. In some villages the men and sons of the families were almost completely wiped out. In addition to the names of the martyrs, the commemorative plaques also contained words of encouragement for the bereaved.

“The high forest is a church
So go in there with devotion.
Little birds sing pious songs
I am alone with my God.
There are gates open to you at all times
To this cathedral in the silent grove
You can cry, pray in it and hope – 
You can also forget
Just step inside.”

Saying in the forest next to a commemorative plaque

A cloud lay over my mind and it is difficult for me to create other feelings or even to admit them. The question about the wars and why there is no learning from them built up a spiral of thoughts which I barely managed to escape from. It even gets so far that I miss a sign on the Rheinsteig and realize after an hour that I have lost my way.

Arrival in Rengsdorf

Arrived in Rengsdorf I go directly to the hotel Waldterasse. I needed a bed to sleep in and reflect on. In the evening I dine with 5 other hikers from Baden Württemberg, who walk a hiking trail that crosses the Rheinsteig. A funny round that takes my mind off things.

The insight of the day: It is hard to get out of a spiral of thoughts alone if you are not prepared for it. Here it goes directly to the sixth stage.


I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the fifth stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.

Greetings, Martin

Rheinsteig Stage 4: Linz – Leutesdorf 27km

Rheinsteig Stage 4: Linz – Leutesdorf 27km

In this article I write about my fourth stage on the Rheinsteig from Linz passing Arenfels Castle until Leutesdorf. This stage should not be taken too lightly as there are many ascents and descents. The article is part of my Rheinsteig series, here it goes to the stage overview and here back to the third stage.

Day: August 31. 2017
Start:07:00 pm – Hotel in Linz
Goal:06:00 pm – Campground Leutesdorf
Distance: 27 km / 16.7 miles

Important notes for the 4th stage

Are there shopping facilities on the 4th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Bad Hönningen (after approx. 11 km / 6.8 miles) there is an Aldi Süd and a REWE – but you have to leave the Rheinsteig. Those who want to camp on the camping site in Leutesdorf should stock up with food here again, as there is no shopping possibility in Leutesdorf and no food is offered on the campground (there is still a pizza delivery service in Leutesdorf, but I didn’t  try it).

Is it possible to refill water on the 4th stage of the Rheinsteig?
Fill up your water bottles again in Bad Hönningen, because there is no possibility to fill them on the last 10 km to Leutesdorf (unless you ring people’s bells in Hammerstein and ask for water – that’s how I did it).

Where can I spend the night on the 4th stage of the Rheinsteig?
In Leutesdorf there is a public campground and a youth hostel. If you want to check in at a hotel, you can visit the “Hotel Leyscher Hof” or the pension “Café Am Rheinsteig”. Both are very well rated.

How is the marking of the route on the 4th stage of the Rheinsteig?
The path is well signposted, so you can’t get lost.

Are there any further recommendations for the fourth stage of the Rheinsteig?
Yes, start the day well rested as there are many ascents and descents and the day can be very long and exhausting.

Map – From Linz to Leutesdorf

May 31, 2018 10:41 pm
  • Distance 27 km
  • Time 0 s
  • Speed 0.0 km/h
  • Min altitude 59 m
  • Peak 282 m
  • Climb 1398 m
  • Descent 1304 m
  • Distance Instructions
Label

The first ascent on the fourth stage

Fortunately, the announced thunderstorms and the storm warning from the previous day did not come true. After a very good breakfast in the Linzer Brauhaus I start the day with some rain. The city of Linz really has charm, is worth seeing and there are fantastic half-timbered houses.

Shortly after Linz the route goes steeply uphill and as a reward there are wonderful views of the Rhine. What I particularly notice on this route there are many shelters and places where you could camp wild or in emergency situations. A situation that didn’t show up in the first few days.

Passing Arenfels Castle

One of the first highlights of this day is the neo-Gothic castle Arenfels in Bad Hönningen, where you have a fantastic panoramic view. The castle Arenfels was built in the years 1258 – 59 under Gerlach von Isenburg and was rebuilt from the year 1848 under the patronage of Earl Westerholt Arenfels to a castle. Arenfels Castle has received the nickname “Castle of the Year” because of its 365 windows, 52 doors and 12 towers. 

While hiking I notice that my legs and feet are well moving and I barely feel no pain. Shortly before Bad Hönningen I take a short break and decide to walk to Leutesdorf. It’s 01:00 pm and I’ve covered the first 10 km / 6.2 Miles.

After Bad Hönningen, the route leads directly into a bird sanctuary with breathtaking natural scenery. After I have left the bird sanctuary, it goes again into the forest and to the small village of Hammerstein. As my water is running low I try to find a shop in Hammerstein, but there is none. A nice woman fills up my water bottle and wishes me a good way to Leutesdorf, which is about 5.5 km / 3,4 Miles from Hammerstein.

Camping in Leutesdorf

Shortly before Leutesdorf I see on my map that there is an official campground in Leutesdorf. As I want to camp again, I go directly to the local campground and set up my tent. On the campground there is almost nothing going on, except for a few permanent campers there is nobody there.

The campsite is located directly at the Rhine, which is why I take a short walk to the bank of the Rhine after setting up my tent and experience an unforgettable sunset. I enjoy the peace and quietness on the Rhine and in nature.

Like the stars in the sky:
Quiet and moving!

Friedrich Hölderlin

After the sun has set, I go back to the campsite and prepare my supper – ramen noodles with broccoli cheese mixture. I can’t believe how good this supper tastes to me. Then I slip into my sleeping bag and fall asleep. My last thought on this day: my feet feel better and my shoes become softer. A first glimmer of hope for a relaxed hike in the next few days.

Conclusion of the day: Because I prepared my food in the tent, I had a lot of condensate in it the next morning. My insight: Do not prepare hot food in the tent, otherwise you will have too much condensate in it. Here it goes directly to the fifth stage.


I hope with this article I could give you a little insight into the forth stage of the Rheinsteig. If you like this article, I’m happy about a Like, a heart or a smile on your face. If you have questions, suggestions or criticism, I’m looking forward to your comments.

Greetings, Martin